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Re: Javelin cylinder linerss

From: kc
Fromemail: kc
Category: Technical
Remote Name:
Date: 14 Dec 2005
Time: 18:47:56


It would be remarkable if all the liners were at the same height. You have excellent heads and block, if they are. You certainly do not need new anything apart from some copper shims available from the club store. It is possible to fit the shims with everything in place; but only if you really have to, as you may not get a good seal. First the almost proper way without removing the pistons from the liners. Undo the big ends and extract the liner with piston. You proably need to pull both liners at once because of the support tube between the two liner that stops them turning. If you have recently built the engine then this may be possible, but if the liners are tight you will have to remove the pistons. I have a special puller made of a disk the diameter of the liner and a threaded bolt for two liners, and a bridge that goes across the block. Fit shims to give desired height but first check if the seal is a fibre washer. If it is, replace with a thick copper shim available from JCS. Note I first check for any bow in head and block using feeler gauges all round with liners out. I also do this with liners in, torqued down to about 10 lbs.ft and check pinch is even all around. Of course torque down in stages in recommended order. If any of this is wrong then you need to surface grind (or file, if you are feeling lucky) the block or head. Or you nead a new block as it is stretching and weak. The dirty way is to cut shim, coat with Hermetite and carefully feed it around the seal with the liner lifted sufficiently. As I said you are taking a chance this way. Finally, even with 4 thou you should have had enough pinch. I suspect the head may not have been torqued down. You must check torque at 500 miles and 1000 miles after rebuild. Have a good look at the gasket, it should tell where the seal broke. How many miles has the engine done since rebuild?

Last changed: November 19, 2008